1974 6'3" code 74

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  • Regular price $1,900.00

Code 74, 1974. The 6'3" Surfline Hawaii was getting long in the tooth and I took it up the street to the God of peninsula board builders Timmy Rogers. Ride a board by his hand and they didn't just work, they delivered the essence of belonging to local core surfing, a notion lost to a lot of surfers today. Peninsula surfing in this period can be summed up by a few names. Midget, Nat, Kim Bailey, Jonty Erwin, Timmy Rogers. Plenty of others of course, Coates, Eems, Brixey, Steen and on and on. They as much represented states of mind as states of style. Art form peaked in surfing from 71 to 75 from Australia right across the Pacific. Being one of the mellowest, nicest people in peninsula surfing, Timmy's sticks were predominantly built for the surfer stylists. He would've been two years older than Rod so five years older than me. Old. 21. Up we walked to his place and Rod introduced me. I showed him the Surfline Hawaii with its pulled in nose and tail, the high aspect Greenough inspired fin, the thinned round tail. If anything it borrowed from the Brewer mini spear used by Reno in 1968. It was originally built by Randy Rarick. In his parents' maroon single wooden garage, set out front slightly elevated on Irrubel Road, Timmy would build a board every few weeks. The resin fumes wafted around the street. Passing by to walk to the shops, sucking in as much of it as I could without lingering, was as good as a great wave. I forget how long it took for Timmy to start the first board I'd see built from scratch but I'd be up there most school afternoons as he eeked out the stages. I'll never forget the stage where the true shape came into focus. Mind blowing. It came out a little thicker and boxier, buoyancy for a growing lad. The Surfline was sold to Bill Jeffreys a minute's walk the other way from the Hynd house who in turn eventually sold it to Kevin Long another minute another way from the Hynd house. Given that Richard Fethers also built backyard boards in between Bill and Kevin, a whole lot of triangulated proximity was at play for kids in our little bit of Newport. The board presented here is as it came from Timmy's garage, 6oz bottom, 6 and a 4 deck patch on top, dark blue/purple bottom onto lapped rails, clear deck with the most iconic bootlegged emblem of the Lopez era, of any era, a red bolt of course. After pretty well riding it into the ground I made a first ever lateral surfing decision, building two small triangular isosceles fins and extended them off the rails at 45 degree angles. I doubt that a board modification had ever been done like it. Sure it was a homage to The Bonzer but I was thinking about how to better lay over a narrow tailed board...dreaming of Bertleman I guess. I did those fins myself, flat foiled, rough as guts. I noticed more grip and drive albeit with some skate. All up I improved a lot in the pocket in a primitive sense. When I rode it at Dee Why Point Peter Crawford saw me and probably connected with the same type of offbeat thinking that had taken him far on his kneeboarding slabs. I was best friends with Greg Fearnside, PC's brother in law who was around my age and the three of us went down to South Coast Pipe where PC shot a decent unpublished photo that I blew up and mounted. It stayed on my bedroom wall for 30 years.