I grew up surfing Newport mid way between Nth Narrabeen / Nth Avalon.
Newport style was mashed smash and country soul because of this.
I went from 5’3” in '73 (Hyndline board code = 73') to 7’4” in '74 in wanting a longer North Av soul line.
There was enough cross-culture shit around to never sit still with my boards.
In '75 I surfed a deep concave version of the old 5'3" in trying to catch more speed and trying to hold an extended line.
In ’76 I went a bit radical: to Narra's King of the Slam Col Smith.
The result, 6’6” ultra concaved twin with small skegs off wings set way back for hold and total speed.
In ’77 it was to Narra’s Sultan of Speed Terry Fitzgerald where he built a single fin
to straighten me out, then on to a far reduced twin fin model of his fabled Sunset
single fin gun outline for edge, bite, and acceleration. Stuff the common route.
To Terry Fitzgerald, I owe my career.
Off The Wall Dec '79 Photo: Wilkings / the mini twin gun
Here are some unsolicited quotes - and before there’s a riot I’m not asking you to believe the words, but written they were.
I don't. But believe this, how I got to where I got due to what I rode is right here via limited edition on a platter.
Founder Rip Curl USA, Don Craig (1982):
“Dusk, New Year’s Eve 1979. I was surfing solid Churches (Trestles) with Derek, watching him come at me on a set.
He pulled three carving 360’s in a row on the one wave which I still envision it to this day”.
Founder Hot Buttered Surfboards, Terry Fitzgerald (1998):
“It took The Thruster a decade to catch where Derek had gone on a twin with stabiliser”.
Steve Pezman, Surfer Magazine 70's/80's Ed & or Publisher: The Surfers Journal Founder & Publisher 90's/beyond (2015):
“...greatest surfer in the recorded history of surfboard riding”.
Stab Magazine (2019):
“Surfing’s greatest influencer”.
Yeah yeah I know I know sorry about that but i've had a life varied boards and have figured ways to ride them, mostly at J-Bay.
Photo: Aitionn Apr '83